@milena.d.k Odessa! What to say about Odessa... this city snatched my heart away. Maybe it was the grand imperial architecture of the 18th and 19th centuries (slowly crumbling); maybe it was the eclecticness of the food scene; or maybe it was just the warmth and genuineness of Odessans themselves — but Odessa was the most memorable stop for me on this Ukraine project. I want to write more about the fascinating divides in this city (a majority Russian-speaking place in Ukraine), about the shabby state of many historical buildings (money is evidently funneled into central Kiev), but also about the visible modernization/gentricication/“hipsterization” of this place and how in many ways it mirrors other modern European cities. But somehow it all feels redundant to me. Although all of that post-Communist legacy stuff is a definite takeaway from here, my most vivid memories will nevertheless be about sipping coffee with a dear IG friend and dancing to Russian trap music on the beach at 4am with newly-met Odessa students.